Starting a clothing brand is more than picking a design and uploading it to Shopify. Understanding the actual production chain — from raw cotton to finished, labelled garment — is what separates founders who build sustainable brands from those who burn out on the first run. The process has more steps than most people expect, and the hidden costs live in the gaps between them.
Most first-time brand founders focus almost entirely on the design: the graphic, the colourway, the vibe. That part matters, but it accounts for a small fraction of the work your manufacturer actually does. Before you send your first email to a factory, you need to understand the full chain — so you know where to ask questions, where costs are negotiable, and where you cannot cut corners without it showing up in your product.
This guide walks every major stage of t-shirt production. We'll cover what happens at each step, the typical costs involved, and the one question you should be asking your manufacturer at each stage.
The 8 Stages of T-Shirt Production
A finished t-shirt passes through eight distinct stages before it reaches your customer. Most of the cost is locked in at stages one through four — by the time you're at the printing stage, the margins are largely set.
Fibre & Yarn Production. Raw cotton is harvested, cleaned, and spun into yarn. The quality of the yarn determines the hand-feel, durability, and print surface of your finished garment. Ring-spun yarn produces a softer, stronger fabric than open-end spun. You won't choose this — your fabric supplier will — but you should ask which they're sourcing.
Fabric Knitting or Weaving. Yarn is knit into fabric panels. For t-shirts, this is almost always circular knitting, producing a jersey fabric. The GSM (grams per square metre) is set here — typically 140–180 GSM for lightweight tees, 200–240 for mid-weight, 260+ for premium heavyweight.
Dyeing & Finishing. Grey fabric is dyed to your colour specs and finished to set the colour, shrinkage, and surface texture. Reactive dyeing (for cotton) produces the most vibrant, wash-fast colours. Ask your factory for a wash-fastness rating — anything below Grade 4 will visibly fade within ten washes.
Cutting. Fabric rolls are laid in multiple plies and cut to your pattern pieces — front, back, sleeves, neckband. This stage is where your tech pack matters most. Tolerances of ±1 cm on seams are standard; request tighter tolerances (±0.5 cm) if you're building a size-inclusive range.
Sewing & Assembly. Cut panels are sewn together. This is where your seam construction choices — single-needle, twin-needle, flatlock, chain stitch — determine the garment's look and durability. Flatlock seams cost more but are required for athletic and premium streetwear positioning. Specify seam type in your tech pack.
Printing & Decoration. Screen printing, DTG, embroidery, or heat transfer is applied to the sewn blank. Printing adds cost and lead time. Screen printing requires a setup fee per colour per design (typically $30–$80 per screen); it's only economical above 50–100 units per design. DTG has no setup cost but higher per-unit cost.
Labelling & Finishing. Woven labels, hangtags, care labels, size stickers, and any additional branding are added. This is the most overlooked cost in a first production run. Custom woven labels can cost $0.30–$1.50 per piece depending on size and MOQ. Budget a separate line item for each branding touch.
Quality Control & Packing. Finished garments are inspected, folded, poly-bagged, and packed for shipping. A reputable factory does inline QC (during sewing) and final random inspection before packing. Ask for the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) standard they use — AQL 2.5 is the industry standard for garments.
"The hidden costs in t-shirt production live in the gaps between stages — in setup fees, in minimums, in the labels nobody budgets for."
Where the Costs Actually Live
New founders often budget for the per-unit garment cost and nothing else. The real production budget looks like this:
Cost Item | Typical Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
Blank garment (cut & sew) | $3 – $12 | Depends on weight, seam type, MOQ |
Screen printing setup | $30 – $80 per colour | One-time per design, per colour |
Printing (per unit) | $1.50 – $5 | Lower per unit at higher quantities |
Custom woven labels | $0.30 – $1.50 each | Often have MOQ of 500–1000 pieces |
Hangtags | $0.10 – $0.60 each | Print locally to reduce MOQ pressure |
Poly bags + packing | $0.20 – $0.50 each | Often included in factory quotes |
Shipping (overseas) | $0.50 – $2 per unit | Varies massively by origin + volume |
Duties & import fees | 5% – 25% of FOB value | Check your country's tariff codes |
On a run of 200 units with a $7 garment cost and a 3-colour screen print, your real landed cost per unit is closer to $14–16 once labels, shipping, and duties are added. That's what you need to price off — not the factory's quoted unit price.
Your Pre-Signing Checklist
Before you sign anything with a manufacturer or put down a deposit, get written answers to these questions:
What is your AQL standard? Ask for their quality inspection process in writing.
What is the exact MOQ, and what happens if I reorder at lower quantity? Some factories will reorder at 50 units; others lock you into the original MOQ.
What are your lead times for sampling vs. production? Sampling is typically 2–4 weeks; production is 45–90 days from sample approval.
Who pays for corrections on a rejected sample? First sample corrections should be covered by the factory; beyond that it varies.
Can I visit or hire a third-party QC inspector before goods ship? Any factory worth working with will say yes.
What certifications do you hold? GOTS, OEKO-TEX, WRAP. Know what your market requires before you ask.
Never wire a deposit without a signed production agreement that specifies: unit cost, total quantity, lead time, penalty for delays, and QC terms. A verbal agreement with a factory is worth nothing when a production run goes wrong.
What a Good Tech Pack Includes
Your tech pack is the document your factory uses to build your garment. If it's vague, your garment will be vague. Every tech pack for a t-shirt should include:
A flat sketch (front and back) with callouts for all seam types and construction details
Size grading chart — measurements for every size, in cm, with tolerances noted
Fabric specification — GSM, composition, finishing requirements
Colour standard — Pantone code, not a screenshot of your design file
Labelling details — woven label placement, care label content, size label placement
Print placement — measured from collar, hem, and side seam in cm
Packaging requirements — folded or hung, poly bag size, carton specs
If you send a tech pack that's missing any of these, your factory will make assumptions. Assumptions cost money to fix.